How To Install A Water Well Pump System

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If you live outside metropolis limits, you may get your water supply from a well. The heart of your well system is the well pump. If the water is close to the surface, you may have a shallow well driven by a jet pump, and if your water is over 25 feet (vii.63 m) deep, you may have a submersible pump system. If the pump breaks, you lot may take to install a new pump. Follow these guidelines to replace your well pump.

1

Make sure you know that the pump is actually your problem. Before embarking on any of the following, ensure you accept determined the pump to exist at effect, by properly troubleshooting and checking the other components in your well system first, based on the presenting symptoms. No water does non always equal no pump.^[1] When in doubt, always consult a professional person. Be sure to follow any and all applicative laws and codes.
ii
Obtain a new pump.
- Make up one's mind what type of pump you need. Submersible pumps are used in deeper wells and will be below the ground in a well casing, while a jet pump is used in shallow wells that are less than 25 feet (7.63 m) deep and will be to a higher place ground.
- Notice out the ability ratings, the gallons (l) per infinitesimal pumped and the well size earlier you install a new pump.
- Locate well pumps at a water supply retail store, hardware store or online. When replacing well pumps, be sure to purchase the right type of pump.
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three

Plough off the power to your pump at the main circuit breaker. A circuit breaker controls the catamenia of electricity to your house, and the well should exist on a carve up switch. Pay attending to the voltage assigned to the billow (110/120,240v) as yous will need this data to troubleshoot your pump bug, and correctly ready up your new pump.
four

Plough on a hose or faucet to release all the pressure from property tanks or pressure tanks by letting the water drain out. When y'all install a new pump, you need to bleed the water from the pumping arrangement.

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one

Utilise a plumber's wrench to have off the inlet and outlet ports on the former well pump.
two

Unscrew the wires going to the pressure switch on the one-time jet pump with a screwdriver.
3

Remove the old pump.
4

Utilise Teflon pipe tape on the threads of the outlet and inlet pipes, wrapping tape around each pipage at least 5 times to get a proper seal. When replacing well pumps, you need a skillful seal to prevent water leaks.^[2]
five
Install the new pump, following manufacturer's instructions.
- Spiral the pipe from the well, or inlet piping, to the inlet pipe on the jet pump with a plumber's wrench.
- Spiral the pipe that brings h2o to the house, or outlet pipe, to the outlet pipe on the jet pump with a plumber'southward wrench.
6

Connect the wires to the appropriate terminals on the pressure switch of the new pump. Tighten the wires to the electric terminal with a screwdriver. Cheque that the pump motor is wired for the aforementioned voltage equally what is existence supplied from the excursion breaker. If the voltage is not the aforementioned, rewire the pump motor to the appropriate voltage configuration per the manufacturer included instructions.
vii

Prime number the pump. Jet pumps need to exist primed before apply. Exercise this by filling the pump with h2o through the outlet pipe coming out of the acme of the pump or an available access pigsty that may be located on the pump. Pour in water until the pump is total. Proceed to the side by side step. If pump loses prime number, doesn't pump at a sufficient charge per unit, or doesn't pump water later on beingness primed and run, it may indicate other bug with the water system (i.e. bad check valve) or the well itself ( i.eastward. hole in driblet pipe, plugged point/jet).^[3] A problem of this nature may take been the causation of the onetime pump failure and may not make itself readily apparent until this bespeak.
8

Turn the circuit breaker back on and examination your new pump.

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This department volition focus mainly on submersible well systems usually used in residential and semi-commercial (i.e. farms, campgrounds, etc.) settings. Then 1/2hp-2hp two-wire pumps, running single-phase 240v power, pumping ten-20GPM in wells four-8" in bore, using a pressure level tank.

1
Assemble your materials. Before starting you volition demand to accept the following materials:
- an assistant
- high-powered flashlight (something on the white calorie-free spectrum)
- two pipage wrenches
- multimeter
- wrench/socket gear up
- knife
- soft-set pipe dope (preferred) or Teflon record
- submersible pump wire splice kit
- wiring pliers
- wire nuts
- electrical tape
- propane torch
- T-handle (parts to build listed further on)
- 2 pipe dogs/piping clamps
- short handled sledgehammer
- petroleum jelly
- 3ft. of two" Sch.forty PVC
- Torque arrestor (half dozen-8" wells)
two
Determine what type of system is used to connect the pump and its drop pipe to the h2o line going to the pressure level tank. If the drop pipage and wire come up upwardly through the well cap, and is piped together to a higher place ground information technology is nigh probably a well seal or a Morrison head. If this is not the case, it is probably continued using some type of pitless adapter, or in rare instances direct piped through the side of the casing with a galvanized tee.
- One last betoken of mention: this is not to be embarked upon lightly. While this commodity tries to be every bit informative every bit possible, and cover a variety of situations, in that location are inherent risks and circumstances across control that may lead to the loss of the pump and pipe down the well, and possible serious injury to persons involved in this activity. If you are uncomfortable with any of the aforementioned and aforementioned processes, delight consult the advisable professionals.
3
Open the well cap (not applicable to well seal, Morrison caput). The well cap is on the round piece of metallic sticking out from the deep well, and will give you access to the submersible pump.^[four]
- Take off the hex basics that concord the cap in place with a socket wrench. seven/xvi" is a mutual size for many caps. On some older caps it may utilise small hex bolts, mounted horizontally (same every bit the system used with 4" metallic vent caps).
  - If your jurisdiction requires vermin-proof well caps, and your cap is not, supercede with a compliant well cap.
- Lift the well cap off the well housing.
- Pull up the extra wire and wire basics. Audit basics for tightness and wire for harm. If a nut is loose in a way that the wires are no longer connected, or a wire is broken, rectify event and test for pump function. If not resolved, or no issue found , keep to undo the wires, paying attention to which wire connects to which. At this indicate, have oneself or the assistant plow the power dorsum on to the well. If there's a command box, be sure to striking the reset push button. After this, use the multimeter to test the wire supplying the well (non the pump wire). If there is not 240v (give or have a few volts) in that location, information technology indicates a problem on that end. Diagnose and rectify the trouble, before reconnecting and retesting for pump part. If this is not the result, go on to the next step. Exist sure power is off again.
4
Determine the type of pitless adapter, the depth and location of it, and what yous volition need to adapt to it (not applicative to well seal/Morrison head). Use the high-powered flashlight to look inside the well casing.
- In colder regions, where freezing is an result, the pitless adapter is usually located 4-viii feet below the elevation of the well. In warmer regions, information technology may be located nearer to the surface.
- The pitless is the brass fixture on elevation of the drop pipe. Y'all should be able to meet the threads where the T-handle threads into it. Depending on the blazon of adapter, these may be male person or female threads.
- There may be a pipe that extends from the top of the pitless, to the tiptop of the well casing or slightly by, with a bar (for lack of a amend description) that spans the tiptop of the casing, or that has a coupling on the end with or without a plug in it. This is called a hold-downwards. Information technology stops the pitless from unseating during pump operation. Sometimes, the hold-down is tack welded to the side of the well casing. This tin can be undone with a hammer accident, or a grinder if necessary. Undo the bar, plug, or tack weld, and thread a short T-handle to the end, after the next pace.
- Try to ascertain the size of the adapter (either 1" or 1-1/4"). If there is a hold down, the bore of the hold-downward pipe should be sufficient data provided it is at least 1". This data is disquisitional to the next step.
- If you have a 7" well with a donut shaped pitless that fills the well casing, yous have a Whitewater pitless. Due to the notorious difficulty involved in pulling and resetting this type of pitless, it is strongly advised that it is left to professional care.
- If it appears like y'all may have just a tee, piped through the side of the casing, consult a professional person.
5
Construct the T-handle and ready to pull the pump. Using the information obtained in the previous pace, construct a T-handle using galvanized steel pipe and fittings corresponding to the size of your adapter (1" or ane-ane/iv").^[5] Do not substitute the specified fabric for PVC (non strong enough) or other metals (more expensive).
- For a brusque T-handle use:
  - one tee
  - three pieces of pipe 12" long, or 6 half-dozen" nipples joined together with three couplings.
  - Structure is simple. One foot of pipage in each side of the tee. Tighten all joints completely. Do not cantankerous-thread.
- For a long T-handle:
  - one tee
  - 2 pieces of pipe 12" long, or 4 6" nipples joined together with two couplings.
  - ane long slice or no more than ii pieces of pipe joined together with a coupling, of a length equal to at least the distance from the top of the pitless, to the top of the well casing, plus i foot. Longer is ok, shorter is not. Construct by putting the 12" pieces in the sides of the tee, with the longest section going in the bottom of the tee. Tighten all joints completely, practice not cross thread.
- Thread the T-handle into the pitless or the hold-down. If you are unable to determine whether your pitless is male or female threads, keep a coupling of the appropriate bore handy. Adhere to the end of T-handle and attempt to thread, if male threads don't connect. If yous are unable to determine the diameter of your adapter, build a 1" T-handle, keep an 1-1/4-ane reducer and a brusque nipple handy. Try those combinations needed. If your T-handle connects only fails to thread, finish and consult a professional. The threads in the pitless may be damaged or fouled and an insufficient connection will pb to the loss of the pump and pipe. If you have fabricated a successful connexion, hand tighten every bit tight as you can, and give 2 more turns with a pipage wrench to complete. Do non cantankerous-thread. Keep to the next footstep.
half dozen
Pull the pump out of the well casing with a winch or a derrick. A winch or derrick has the strength to pull the submersible pump out without damaging the casing or yourself. The method for pulling the pump that will be described here is a variant of the "double dog" method, and while not the standard method of pulling well pumps, will virtually probable be the easiest method for the equipment and skills available to the types of persons using this guide.
- If the pump is 3/4hp or less on 100' or less drib pipe, and the driblet pipe is Schedule fourscore PVC or HDPE (black poly)you may consider pulling it by hand, if y'all and your banana are strong enough. If information technology is HDPE, pulling by paw is the primary option, since it does not have jointed sections, other than peradventure a hold-down, or a curt section of galvanized steel pipe below the pitless.
- If yous take a well seal or Morrison head, disengage the connexion betwixt the drib piping and outlet line that is above ground. On a well seal, use a wrench or ratchet to loosen the bolts on the seal. Later on you lot do this, pull the drop pipe up through the seal a foot or so, and attach a piping canis familiaris, using the guidelines below to properly set the tightness.
- Preset the tightness of your pipe dogs using the T-handle as a guide. The pipe dog is ready correctly when it takes a moderate or slightly more resistance to shut it around the pipe. If your drop pipage turns out to be Sch, fourscore or HDPE, yous will need to adjust a scrap more than when the moment comes to apply it. Exist sure to not overtighten with these materials, as they may deform or break. Do not under tighten, as the loss of the well pump and pipage may event.
- Adhere the winch or derrick line to the T-handle or effectually the pipe dog. Exercise this with a concatenation, in a manner such that the it will not come off the T-handle or pipage domestic dog, and the handle of the piping domestic dog will not be accidentally released.
- Unseat the pitless by tightening the winch or derrick line and using it to pull the T-handle up. Use a small sledgehammer to tap upwardly on the lesser side of one of the T-handle handles to assistance with this. Do not pound on information technology forcefully. You volition know the pitless has unseated past the sudden release of tension, and you volition nigh probably hear water gush out. Guide the pitless out of the side of the well casing and straight up, stopping when the pitless is approximately 18 inches (45.seven cm) above the top of the casing Clamp with a piping canis familiaris, ensuring to gear up it on the top of the casing, and to not pinch the wire, release the tension from the cable and remove the T-handle. If the pitless will not unseat, stop, and consult a professional.
  - Check that the pitless has its O-ring(due south), and that it(they) are in expert shape. Replace with an verbal replacement if necessary. Replacement with anything not an exact replacement may result in the pitless not existence able to seat properly, or leaking.
  - During this process have the banana hang on to the wire, guiding it out of the casing, cutting where it is taped onto the pipage(taking intendance not to nick the wire), and feeling for whatsoever defects or bare spots there may be on the wire.
  - If you lot have a well seal, this step is pulling up xviii inches (45.seven cm), unseating the well seal with a prybar or flathead screwdriver, raising the seal and then you can clench the 2d pipe dog on below the well seal and and then taking the well seal off the pipage.
- Proceed to pull the pipe and pump by attaching the chain under the piping domestic dog in a mode such that it cannot come off. If you are using a winch, you lot volition only be able to pull it in small-scale increments. If you are using a derrick, and the boom is long enough, you may be able to pull entire sections of pipe. If not, pull in smaller increments.
  - If your drop pipe is galvanized steel, it comes in 21 feet (vi.four yard). lengths,typically. If it is Sch. 80 PVC, information technology is in xx feet (half-dozen.i m). sections. If it is HDPE, information technology does non come up in sections. Equally mentioned before, pulling HDPE by mitt is the nigh viable selection, and should be attempted first.
  - In 4-5" casings, rust buildup on the inside may cause the pump to hang up, or non permit a new pump to become down. If this is the instance, consult a professional to work out a viable solution to the trouble. Do not force the pump and pipe to go anywhere it does not want to, as the consequences can be dire.
  - Pull the pipe and pump up out of the casing. With a winch or brusk boom derrick, pull a couple (v for the short boom derrick) feet at a time, attach the other pipe dog, at the top of the well casing or slightly above, set down, undo chain, and upper pipe domestic dog. Reattach chain to lower pipe dog, same every bit before. Repeat until you lot have reached the first coupling. At this point adhere the piping dog below the coupling. If using a derrick with a long enough smash, this is the first point where you finish and clamp the pipe.
7
Take the drop pipe apart. Unscrew the pipage out of the top of the coupling. Practise not unscrew the coupling off of the pipe below.
- - If the pipe is galvanized steel piping, inspect each section for rust. If the pipe is rusty, and/or covered with blisters of rust, do non reuse the pipe. Replace with new galvanized, or Sch. fourscore PVC. Take extreme intendance with the pipage in the air, as you unscrew information technology equally it is heavy, and serious injury or damage may issue to persons or property hitting by the pipe as it comes to the ground.
  - Take care with Sch. 80 PVC to not over extend the pipe, every bit information technology will break. Accept care to not damage the threads on the pipe or couplings.
  - Use the slice of ii" Sch. xl PVC as an extension to give yourself leverage if you're having trouble getting the piping to come unscrewed.
- Echo the process until you have the pipe and pump out.
8
Follow manufacturer'south directions to adhere your new pump.
- Run a continuity test on the wire you merely pulled with the old pump, if no obvious defects were plant. If there is continuity, reuse. If not, replace the wire.
  - The wiring kit should accept iii barrel connectors, and 3 compress tubes. Slide the shrink tubes onto the pump wires before connecting the wires. Crimp well, so the wire doesn't pull out of the butt connectors, and seal by centering the shrink tubes over the connections, using the propane torch to shrink
- If yous take a 6" or larger well, there volition be a torque arrestor(it looks like a rubber football with four pieces missing) Brand certain it is in practiced condition. Replace if needed. If there is not 1, put ane on, with the lesser about six inches (fifteen cm) above the pump. "Balloon" the torque arrestor out so it is well-nigh the same size as the well casing or slightly less. Not having it enough will brand the torque arrestor ineffective.
9

Chlorinate the well with a few(x or so) chlorine pellets or a few cups of liquid bleach. When installing well pumps, droppings and rust is stirred upwards in the casing, and bacteria can make it through the top, which tin cause issues.^[vi]
10

Reverse the process used to pull the pump. Be certain to tape the wire well, and utilise enough pipage dope on the threads. Lower the submersible pump into the well casing with the winch or derrick line.^[7] Stop when the pitless is 18–24 inches (45.vii–61.0 cm) above the casing. Clamp with a pipe dog.
xi
Run the water in the casing over the top until information technology is clear, and you lot can no longer smell chlorine. Do this by wiring the pump wire back upward to the other wire, and turning the power back on. The pump will pump the water out and onto the basis.^[8]
- Afterwards the completion of everything, y'all may choose to continue to run off more water through an outside garden hose bibb. This volition flush the water through the pressure tank.
  - If yous take any filters, screens, or softeners, beware that they may become plugged upwards by pocket-sized flakes of rust stirred up past the pump replacement process. Running it over the top a bit longer can get a long way towards prevention, but, is not 100 percent effective.
12
Turn the power off, unwire, reattach the T-handle and chain, lubricate the O-ring(s) of the pitless with petroleum jelly(do not apply pipe dope), lower down the residual of the mode, and reset the pitless. Use the high-powered flashlight to see down the casing to help you.
- This pace can be very difficult. Make sure to become information technology correct. or become help to get information technology correct.
- If yous have a horizontal-seating pitless (i.e. Mass J-Series or similar) tap the height of the T-handle to seat the pitless the rest of the way.
- If you have a vertical-seating pitless(Advance or like) and it was on galvanized steel pipe, and was replaced with Sch. 80, add a agree down before turning on pump. Due to the divergence in the hanging weight, a pitless of this blazon may unseat otherwise.
thirteen

Wire the pump back together, advisedly stuff the extra wire dorsum in the casing, supervene upon the well cap and tighten the hex nuts to secure it.
14
Plough the power dorsum on and test your new pump. Normal water service should exist restored.
- In spite of chlorination, it is required in many jurisdictions to submit a h2o sample for bacteria testing. Care for the water every bit dangerous for drinking purposes, pending the results of the exam.
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Add New Question

Question

What tin can cause a pump to click on and off?

Information technology could be the pressure tank has no air charge.
Question

If the gasket is bad between the pump and the motor, would this cause it to lose suction?

I hope you lot meant the gasket that is the part of the pump. If and so, it is worn out and needs replaced.
Question

Is 12-ii wire used on well pumps? And what breaker is needed: 15a or 20a?

For a 2-wire pump, 12-2 solid or braided core submersible pump wire is commonly used, with 12-ii underground wire run from the house to the well. This may change on deeper wells or college output pumps, though. Utilise a twenty amp breaker with the aforementioned 12-2 wiring setup.
Question

How tin I tell if my well pump is bad?

Outset cheque to make sure you have power going from the control box to the well. If information technology is a deep well pump you lot most certainly accept no h2o if the pump is bad. At the well head you volition accept to check for continuity with a voltage meter.

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Non all jet pumps accept a 1-way valve. When you lot purchase a jet pump, find a pump that has the i-way valve included, or buy the i-way valve and plumb it into your water arrangement.
Check the belch line fastened to your submersible pump for blockage periodically to avoid flooding or harm to your pump.

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Things You'll Need

Jet pump or submersible pump
Plumber's wrench
Screwdriver
Teflon tape
Socket wrench
Winch
Sanitation liquid

About This Article

Commodity Summary X

To replace your well pump, all you lot'll need is a plumber'south wrench, Teflon piping tape, and a screwdriver. Make sure you turn off the power before working on your pump to avoid electrocuting yourself. You'll also need to drain your tank to release all the pressure. Once your tank's empty, remove the pump's inlet and outlet ports, unscrew the wires going to the pressure switch, and remove the old pump. You lot'll need to apply Teflon pipage record to the outlet and inlet threads to assistance y'all go a proper seal and foreclose leaks. Afterwards you've reconnected the wires to your pump, you'll also demand to prime it by filling it with water through the outlet pipage and testing it. For more tips, including how to supercede a submersible pump, read on!

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